Catching Up with Texas Wines

October was Texas Wine Month, so I dusted off my media hat to join two online tastings. The first was a talk and taste with Texas Fine Wine, the next highlighted wines from Texas Heritage Vineyard. While I was not able to join in person to sample the wines in the first tasting, a few piqued my interest. Each reminded me of the talent and scope of the industry. The second was a wonderful first impression of a new-to-me winery that has been producing since 2017.

Bending Branch Winery shared one that I am hoping to get my hands on soon. A sparkling picpoul blanc made in charmant style with grapes from Andy Timmons’ Rollin Taylor Vineyard. I’m seeing more and more of this “lip stinger” in Texas wine which is very exciting. Duchman Winery teased with one of their final GSM blends. The focus moving forward will be on more Italian grapes. If you’ve had it, you understand why this is disappointing. However, the varieties they are best known for will likely only get even better. Pedernales Cellars shared Cuvee 1853, a non-traditional blend which references the year their family made Texas home. This was a blend of predominately Cinsault with Alicante Bouschet, Syrah, and Mourvedre. I’m intrigued. Finally, Ron Yates talked about his Independence, a Bordeaux blend from Spicewood Vineyards. This is a blend he only makes certain years. He makes those years count with this bold wine.

Texas Heritage Vineyard is located in Fredericksburg and produces 100% Texas wines. We sampled three, each equally impressive. Owner Susan Johnson and winemaker Tyler Buddemeyer walked us through each wine while sharing their philosophies on wine making and hospitality. They want the fruit to speak with low intervention wines. They believe in creating a laid-back, welcoming environment.

The 2022 Viognier was a classic representation of the grape. Grown at Wildseed Farms, it had a nose of honey and stone fruit. Fermented in stainless, the tropical fruit and stone fruit shined, notes of honey remained with lively acidity. Beautiful.

Syrah is a grape that can go in many directions. Their 2020 Syrah is exactly what I like in the variety. Grown in the Hill Country at Gotneaux Creek Vineyard, this bottle had a lovely nose-big fruit and spice. It spends 30 months in a neutral barrel. Both red and black fruit with a bit of tartness. Integrated spice and earth, while remaining fresh and easily drinkable. Really delicious.

I first encountered Alicante Bouschet in Sonoma in 2006 at Wellington Vineyards. Someone at another tasting room sent us there just to try that bottle. I still have one of their Noir de Noirs. When I began writing about Texas wine, I had only heard Don Pullum speak of using some in a blend for Pontotoc Vineyard. Tonight, two bottles were using the grape, one as a single variety.

If you are not familiar with the grape, it is one of the few with red flesh. This lends to a saturated color and an intensity that is unique. Texas Heritage is producing this wine from estate grapes. 30% spends time in new American oak barrels. The wine is nearly opaque, the nose dark and rich. Black fruits, cocoa, elegant tannins, purple flowers, white pepper. A super interesting, delicious wine.

The Texas Wine Industry continues to grow in breadth, depth, and quality. Each time I revisit old favorites, or try something new, I marvel at how far they have come. I am excited for the future. The refining continues, the vision expands. And the people remain one of my favorite parts of exploring Texas wines.

Unknown's avatar

Posted by

Being a stay- at-home mom can leave one thirsting for a taste of the outside world, a world in which sentences are composed of more than three words. Being an educator means one is always seeking an opportunity to explore and learn. Being a woman with a need to connect can be a challenge when adult conversations are rare. In wine, I find the marriage of art and science, agriculture and storytelling provides limitless areas to explore. But it is the people that keep me engaged. The tenacity needed to keep the family dream alive, the risk to start anew, the trials and principles. I love the history of the vine, the impact of a season, the sentiment in the bottle. That is why I write. I write to tell their stories, to share a piece of mine. I write to learn as I teach others. I write to connect with new friends, to disconnect from the world. I write to celebrate what makes each of us unique, and that which ties us together.

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.